From Swordmaking to Fine Jewelry
The History of Mokume Gane
Mokume Gane (木目金) was first created by Denbei Shoami (1651-1728) in the last decades of the 17th century in the Akita Prefecture in Japan. This intricate Japanese metalworking art was most typically reserved for decorating samurai swords.
A finest art
In Shintoism, samurai and martial arts were highly respected. Therefore, only the finest artisans produced elaborate swords with exceptional artistry, and these weapons were a way for samurai to express their wealth, power, and social status. Mokume Gane was most often used to decorate swords and sword guards.
Тhe Kozuka
The kozuka is a small utility knife which fit into a pocket on the wooden saya.
Photo of a Knife handle (Kozuka) with blade from 18th Century courtesy of THE MET Museum Тhe Tsuba
The tsuba is a Japanese sword guard. Most preserved Mokume Gane objects from this period are tsuba.
Photo of a Sword Guard (Tsuba). Date: first third of 19th century. Photo by Alamy Denbei Shoami: Father of Mokume Gane
The history of mokume gane starts with Denbei Shoami. Denbei Shoami was a superb Japanese craftsman who received permission to use the name Shoami from Shoami School (founded in the late 1500s in Kyoto). He was also supported by the Satake clan – which was then Daimyo (大名) – in the Akita region.
While Mokume Gane was Shoami’s invention, he was also a historically important artisan who produced superior steel swords and sword fittings with carving and inlay.
From Guri Bori to Mokume Gane
At first, Shoami named his technique Guri Bori because the pattern was similar to Guri, one of the Tsuishu techniques in lacquer work (Urushi) that originated in ancient China.
Tsuishu techniques occur when patterns are carved into thick layers of differently-colored lacquer. When line patterns are created, it is referred to as Guri.
It’s unclear whether Denbei Shoami was trying to achieve what we know today as Mokume Gane, or if he was attempting to imitate the Urushi lacquer technique. However, we do know that early in its history, Shoami’s technique was referred to as Guri Bori.
Guriburi from the 19th century. Original photo by Asianart The Earliest History of Mokume Gane
There is no doubt that Denbei Shoami was influenced by the craft of swordmaking and adapted these forging and welding principles to create Mokume Gane. Shoami discovered that metals (other than steel and iron) could be joined together to create patterns similar to lacquer work.
The oldest example of Shaomi’s Mokume Gane was used in a Kozuka (sword hilt) using gold, silver, Shakudo (a gold and copper alloy), and copper. This technique was also called Itame Gane or Yosefuki.
Though a succession of metalsmiths continued practicing traditional Mokume Gane techniques, none have been as revered as Shoami, the original master of this craft.
Metalsmiths working on the forge. Photo by Sculpture and Images What Does Mokume Gane Mean?
Mokume Gane can be translated as “wood eye gold.”木目金、
木 = wood,
目= eye,
金 = gold
Mokume Gane’s Evolution
After Japan’s military reforms in 1877, carrying swords in public was forbidden. As Japan began opening to the Western world, artisans had to make different objects for their traditional work to live on.
During the mid-20th century, metalworkers like Norio Tamagawa (who is still practicing today) and Gyokumei Shindo were able to preserve the Mokume Gane technique while becoming celebrated masters of the art. Most commonly, they created handmade bowls and vessels called Shibori (絞り).
Mokume Gane Master Norio Tamagawa in his workshop. Photo by Kenoh Bringing Mokume Gane to the Western World
In the 1970s, Eugene and Hiroko Pijanowski studied Mokume Gane techniques with Norio Tamagawa and brought the art to the Western world, most notably in the form of their jewelry designs. These jewelry pieces were entirely metal and rarely deviated from Mokume Gane patterns (which were also random and without much strategy).
Although the basic technique concept hasn’t altered dramatically over the centuries, greater scientific understanding has resulted in more advanced equipment and designs. That said, the best Mokume Gane pieces cannot be achieved by large manufacturers or assembly lines. It’s important to look for small, specialized studios run by artisans who are dedicated to mastering this art form by using hammer and heat alone.
Mokume Gane Jewelry
While Mokume Gane is an ancient metalworking technique, its use in jewelry making is a fairly recent development – and is rarely paired with gemstones. With Jaume Labro’s bespoke jewelry creation, each piece is entirely handmade using traditional Mokume Gane techniques.
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Our Sustainable Jewelry
Our exclusive Mokume engagement rings as well our Mokume wedding rings have been very popular due the quality, craftsmanship and history behind each piece.
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Creating Mokume Gane
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Our jewelry is created, using only ethically sourced gemstones and recycled gold. We strive to reduce our ecological footprint and contribute to a greener world.
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