How to Create
Mokume Gane Jewelry
If you’ve ever wanted to learn how to create Mokume Gane jewelry, this article outlines all of the painstaking, detailed work that goes into this ancient Japanese metalwork.
1. MOKUME GANE PROCESS: BILLET
The Supplies You’ll Need
- sandpaper (between 180 and 260-grit)
- scotch-brite pad
- pumice powder
- pure, distilled water
- latex gloves
- metals (e.g. yellow, gold, white gold, platinum, palladium, sterling silver)
See our extensive selection of Mokume Gane metal combinations, crafted exclusively from the finest precious metals.
1.1 Select, Clean, and Dry Your Metals
1.2 Order the Metal Billet
1.3 Press with Torque Plates
1.4 Prepare the Billet for Firing
1.5 Fire the Billet
2. MOKUME GANE PROCESS: BILLET FORGING AND SHAPING
2.1 Cover the Billet with Soft solder
2.2 Anneal Often
2.3 Use a Rolling Machine
2.4 Begin Shaping the Billet
2.5 The Shaping Process
2.6 Take Your Time
2.7 Flatten the Billet
3. MOKUME GANE PROCESS: PATTERN
Creating Your Mokume Gane Pattern
Hammer and Anneal Repeatedly
Anneal, Hammer, and Roll
4. MOKUME GANE PROCESS: RING CREATION WITH LINER
How to Create a Mokume Gane Ring (with liner)
Calculate How Much Metal You Need
Next, calculate the metal you’ll need (length). This is the total cubic millimeter.
For example, if a ring is supposed to be 5mm wide and 2mm thick, the circumference length would be 100mm long.
The cubic millimeter, however, would be calculated this way:
5x2x100=1,000mm3.
Calculate How Much Metal You Need
Next, annealing the piece will allow you to bend the metal to produce the external ring (this particular ring will have a liner). A Mokume Gane ring will be thinner without a liner.
Solder the Seams
Clean the Ends
Focus on Shaping
Check the Width
Create the Ring Liner
Polish the Ring
Ensure the Correct Size
Polish Once Again
5. MOKUME GANE PROCESS: ETCHING
How to Etch Mokume Gane Jewelry
The final part of the Mokume Gane process involves etching. This is the delicate erosion of silver or gold to create an organic, multi-level look.
Professional disclaimer: Always use protective masks and goggles while carrying out this process.
At Jaume Labro, we’ve developed our own chemical formula to etch our Mokume Gane jewelry. A quick bath that covers the entire piece is required.
Polish the Mokume Gane Ring
Once the etching is finished, polish the jewelry piece once more and finish with the ultrasonic cleaner.
Never pour chemicals down the drain. Our company is determined to neutralize/recycle our products in an environmentally-friendly way. We pay a waste management company to neutralize the chemicals used during the etching process.
To produce the finest Mokume Gane jewelry, Jaume Labro acts ecologically, recycles precious metals, and leaves as little negative impact on the world as possible.